Sunny in Lofoten











Climbs on Pillaren, were Coley Smoke and Child’s Play and Bare Blabaer. Then Forsidia on Svolvaergeite.










Today has been fairly damp in Henningsvear and no climbing. Plenty of interesting things to do though if it’s a first visit. Accommodation is reasonably priced at around £20 each in a self catering Rorbu, for four of us.










Just arrived en route to Lofoten. Climbed Klubrutta, grade around Very Severe on Eidetind, S.E. Buttress, a good starter, south of Narvik and with six good pitches. This is a holiday trip with Spike, Dave, Tony and yours truly.

Our accommodation included old fisherman’s huts (Rorbus) at £20 each a night, wild camping or just sleeping out under the stars. Fly Norwegian Air via Edinburgh – Oslo – Narvik/Harstad and rent a vehicle. Other climbers we met, felt it had been cheaper to fly into Sweden as car rental and food supplies are a lot cheaper in that country. Do your own research.

Lost Valley bridge closed

Anyone considering walking or climbing from the Lost Valley in Glen Coe should read this The weather just now is not great, but drier conditions are just around the corner and recent dry conditions have been good for climbing.

Cloudy but dry

Today it is still dry but a little cloudy, with patches of blue sky. Yesterday was busy with West Coast Mountain Guides teams out in a variety of locations. Spike Sellers is away rock climbing with a guest on Skye and in Coire Lagan yesterday on the magnificent Cioch Buttress, which must be the most extensive and continuous set of mountain cliffs anywhere in Britain. Al Halewood was training two folk for an attempt on the traverse of the Skye Ridge. This training involved climbing up and down Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, practising the various forms of climbing, moving together roped, abseiling and solo climbing, which will be used on the Black Cuillin traverse. Anyone interested in training for the Skye ridge traverse should consider this outing. Up and down Tower Ridge, at least twenty times will be something like the amount of work minimally needed, plus a bivouac along the way before considering the Skye outing. Meanwhile Kenny Grant was out with a guest on the Aonach Eagach. A trivial scramble when compared to Skye!

More sunshine

I hear that the hosepipe ban could be lifted in the damp south! Still dry and sunny up north folks if you want to avoid the rain, storms and crowds in Englandshire!!

Marker Posts on Ben Nevis

Fortunately common sense has won the day and navigational marker at the top of Number Four Gully will remain. Marker post on Ben Nevis Also, the crucial marker posts leading down towards the CMD Arete will stay in place. In a conversation with MC of S Safety Officer it was clear that Heather Morning feels that the posts leading down to CMD Arete are still of considerable use to those of us navigating off of Ben Nevis.

Carn Dearg Buttress and Curved Ridge today

Hi Alan,

Centurion was good today,not too cold and bone dry. Busy however, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many teams up there and we had to wait a good hour and half before climbing Three teams on Centurion ahead of us, and parties on Route II, Bullroar, Torro and King Kong. Large bottlenecks in places so we ended up finishing up Route 2. Thanks to Kenny Grant for this report. He was running a short advanced rock climbing course for West Coast Mountain Guides with Ed and Reed. Thanks also to Mike Brownlow who was running a short three day scrambling course for West Coast Mountain Guides on Buachaille Etive Mor today, Ben Nevis yesterday and Poll Dubh crags on Saturday.



More dry weather

Thanks to Spike Sellers for the sunset shot from a bivvy on the Skye Black Cuillin, congratulations on a significant birthday, friend. Also Hannah Evans took the shots on the Five Sisters of Kintail. Both working for West Coast Mountain Guides over the Jubilee weekend. Very busy recently I’m pleased to say and still plenty of good instructors around to do the work.

Dear Alan,

Good afternoon! How are you? Once upon a time GANGARA Caves harboured shelters of pirates. No anglers visit the area harbouring sanctuary of a family of osprey and some other species of seabirds in this quiet Sunday afternoon.

Yasuyoshi Sakai

Thanks Yoshi. Winter has finally finished here, although yesterday icicles high on Ben Nevis were forming. These caves and surrounding cliffs look like good for climbing?

Gangara Caves

Dry sunny and cold

Thanks to Mike Brownlow for the photos on Ledge Route today with Peder and Yamsine. Also from Mark Chadwick on Rannoch Wall with Pat. Last but of course not least our two daughters Victoria and Hannah, who walked up Ben Nevis today. Also, finally,  Dan Goodwin with the Demetia Adventure team. Dry and cold with some light flurries of snow.