Certainly good and warm this evening for a climb in Glen Nevis. No midges and good solid rock on Storm (HVS 5a) possibly the best route for the grade in the glen. Tony Shepherd seen following the first two pitches as far as the big pine belay, then leading the third crux pitch. Very well protected and enjoyable all the way.
Finally warm weather appears to be on the move north. Ben Nevis still has snow remaining in all the major easy gullies and the ridges will keep snow for some time, although burning off fairly quickly. The big rock faces are still weeping and damp for the time being and climbs such as The Long Climb will be wet and difficult. The photos show Ben Nevis last Sunday.
Dropping off some folks at Inverness airport today, showed up the large amounts of snow still lying on the higher Scottish hills. These two shots are of Ben Wyvis. Also today, ski-ing in the Cairngorms by all accounts. The forecast suggests an end to this colder weather pattern, so maybe more rock climbing to come. Today on Rannoch Wall it was a touch greasy according to Spike Sellers.
From a friend on the Greenland ice cap. Thanks Bruce.
Almost done! Streaking across the icecap at 9mph with a plane to catch in 10 days time, but only 340 miles to go so no problem! Looking forward to some tramping and MT biking. Day after day of spectacular sun dogs, of various types whilst we were at Summit Camp. Attached is a shot of one of them.
Some shots from Raeburn’s Easy Route on Saturday. Quite a lot was in – including the Comb.
Hope these may be of interest on the blog.
Thanks Robin. Still plenty to go for and SAIS are still issuing avalanche forecasts for weekends.
Spike and Ken were attempting a traverse over Friday and Saturday last. Unfortunately some very wintry weather got in the way on Friday, although Saturday turned out reasonable. It just goes to show that patience and a flexible daily weather period must be factored into any attempt. Snow, rain and or wind will almost certainly reduce the speed and confidence of the party, as will large groups. West Coast Mountain Guides offer a four-day slot. The instructors keep in touch a day or two prior to arrival and we try and choose the best period based on the weather forecast. See Spike Sellers photos hear The photos in the gallery above were taken by Ken Applegate. Ken was working on behalf of West Coast Mountain Guides with James. Recommended numbers on a traverse attempt are no more than two to one instructor. Those taking part should have a head for heights and be able to sustain two days of hard challenge on this unique mountain range. Previous rock climbing experience to Severe standard would also help. Check out Black Cuillin Traverse for more detail
Sea Eagles and loose women! Two inches of new snow on the Black Cuillin tops today (11th May). This last week we avoided the snow and wet high tops by using the new and very good Scottish Mountaineering Club climbing guide to Skye Outcrops and Sea Cliffs. Paddling into some locations and making the most of the sheltered side of the island on a daily basis, we avoided any really bad weather, especially on Wednesday last. The photos tell the story but top marks go to Suidhe Biorach beside Elgol, where we met Tom Prentice (SMC guidebook editor) by chance using the new guide. For truly loose and chossy conditions please avoid Macleod’s Maidens (Old Lady – HVS, 4c)
Hi Alan, Robin and I had a good day out soloing Gardyloo Gully yesterday. I have attached some pics that shows the condition of the ice in the tunnel. We had Observatory Gully all to ourselves, however it was a very different story when we topped out – the Ben was busy with some charity walk. – All the climbs now look very thin apart from GFC and this one – however I think we will get one more weekend of ice before it all goes. Looking to do Raeburns Easy Route next weekend.