Another great day

From Bruce Poll:

Another busy day on Tower Ridge by the look of it this afternoon. Conditions seem to be getting cooler up high, as well as the valley. The temperature inversion feels like its lifting. Ropes and gloves stayed dry all day, a rare treat!We climbed Zero in excellent condition and traversed back round the CMD to enjoy the sunshine. The arete is very snowy just now with a good track across the top. 3 teams were on Orion, the same on Point 5, they are also great. Several teams were heading up Gardyloo, parties on Tower Scoop, several more did Hadrian’s Direct. More folk in Green Gully. Thanks to Spike Sellers for the Nevis photos.

And from Roy Starkey:

Hi Alan

We had a superb day on Snowdon yesterday (Monday 18th Feb) – Alpine conditions with wall to wall sunshine and blue skies with stunning visibility above a slightly hazy inversion lower down. Winter conditions remain on the mountain above about 2500 feet and most people we met were properly equipped with crampons and axes. Our route took us on a circuit form the car park at Pen-y-Pass up to Llyn Llydaw, round to the south over Y- Lliwedd and up the ridge to the summit before returning via the Pyg track. As we were leaving the car park about 6pm we stopped to give a lift to a guy we had met on the way round, and had gone back up to solo Central Trinity where the snow was reported to be in good nick.

Best wishes

From Andy Ravenhill on the West Face of Aonach Mor:

Hi Alan

We had a truly alpine day on golden oldie today makes a change to be in the sun climbing superb snow. Ridge thin on the bottom but the ridge section was excellent. Loads of ice about as well in the gullies. Also teams on western rib which looks good photo sent separately.



Frosty mornings


Very fine weather at the moment, with overnight frosts. Tower Ridge is very busy by all accounts. Creag Meagaidh and Last Post were awesome according to Bruce Poll. Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for the shot of The Great Tower.

This comment from Bruce Poll:

…”Stunning weather after the storms of last week. The recent warm temperatures have given way to cold and clear nights with an Alpinesque feel to the air and frozen snow generally across the mountains. The last few days we have climbed on the Ben: Hadrian’s, Orion Directissima to the basin, Smith Holt exit from the basin, the top of NE Buttress (where I have never climbed the ManTrap on pure snow and ice for over 20 years, not for the faint hearted); Last Post on Meagy (stunning)………and the rest of the week’s weather promises the same. There are still a few droopy cornices about that are getting the sun at certain times of the day!

For those who keep on trying, when Scotland delivers on the weather, it is so worth waiting for. Enjoy”….

Great weather


Thanks to Scott Kirkhope and Andy Ravenhill for these shots taken today. Scott Climbed Central Gully R-Hand and reported mixed conditions  in places. Central Gully L-Hand was climbed in much better shape. Orion Face Direct and Hadrian’s Wall were both climbed and reported to be reasonable. The conditions should improve even more as the colder weather moves in.

Anyone who finds an ice screw on Green Gully, one of our guests dropped it today and would be very grateful if it was returned!

Climbing course vacancy

On the off-chance anyone is looking for a technical winter climbing course next week. We have one space on a winter climbing course (up to grade V), starting on Sunday.

"point five gully"

Also, out of interest, check out The Scottish Mountain Heritage website.

Good conditions

Good conditions, but very windy at times. Some teams returning have not been hit by the wind, whilst others have toiled a wee bit. Lots of ice around and reports of Mega Route X and Gemini having been climbed of late. Thanks to Scott Kirkhope for these two photos taken today on the East Ridge of North Buttress, Stob Ban, avoiding any avalanche hazards.

Crowberry Gully

Thanks to Gareth Davies for this shot taken on Crowberry Gully today. Conditions in many places sound very good, with plenty of ice.

Gloves returned

Alan, could I use your blog to thank the two lads who returned the glove I dropped down “taxus” on beinn an dothiadh. They kindly returned it to my car windscreen ! (Great route, final ice finish in great condition)  Robert Kneen []

Thanks Robert, good to see some honest and helpful folk around as usual. Alan

Thanks to Adam Hughes for this photo, taken on The Curtain yesterday. Well done Alex.

Fine weather

Today the weather turned out better than forecast and thanks to Scott Kirkhope for this rather nice shot on Stob Ban.


Storms arriving

Bad weather is on the way, followed by some really cold systems. Thanks to Dave Barker who took these photos over the weekend.

Okay conditions

Teams out today on both Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glen Coe) and East Face of Aonach Mor reported reasonable conditions. Spike, Lee and Joe abseiled into Central Buttress area on Aonach Mor in case the avalanche hazard was a problem in Easy Gully.

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