Climbing course vacancy

On the off-chance anyone is looking for a technical winter climbing course next week. We have one space on a winter climbing course (up to grade V), starting on Sunday.

"point five gully"

Also, out of interest, check out The Scottish Mountain Heritage website.

Good conditions

Good conditions, but very windy at times. Some teams returning have not been hit by the wind, whilst others have toiled a wee bit. Lots of ice around and reports of Mega Route X and Gemini having been climbed of late. Thanks to Scott Kirkhope for these two photos taken today on the East Ridge of North Buttress, Stob Ban, avoiding any avalanche hazards.

Crowberry Gully

Thanks to Gareth Davies for this shot taken on Crowberry Gully today. Conditions in many places sound very good, with plenty of ice.

Gloves returned

Alan, could I use your blog to thank the two lads who returned the glove I dropped down “taxus” on beinn an dothiadh. They kindly returned it to my car windscreen ! (Great route, final ice finish in great condition)  Robert Kneen []

Thanks Robert, good to see some honest and helpful folk around as usual. Alan

Thanks to Adam Hughes for this photo, taken on The Curtain yesterday. Well done Alex.

Fine weather

Today the weather turned out better than forecast and thanks to Scott Kirkhope for this rather nice shot on Stob Ban.


Storms arriving

Bad weather is on the way, followed by some really cold systems. Thanks to Dave Barker who took these photos over the weekend.

Okay conditions

Teams out today on both Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glen Coe) and East Face of Aonach Mor reported reasonable conditions. Spike, Lee and Joe abseiled into Central Buttress area on Aonach Mor in case the avalanche hazard was a problem in Easy Gully.

Winter Lectures

Wild weather

At present the weather is very unsettled and the low level ice of the previous weeks has disappeared or is falling down. The only consolation, is that wet sleet/snow is falling on the high tops and a series of freeze/thaw weather systems will be passing through. In the medium term this is good, as higher routes will be building and if the weather calms down, they will still be intact. A high avalanche risk persists at the moment, so stick to ridges and mixed climbs that are not threatened from above and do not require access over large bowls of snow. Avoid gullies if at all possible.  Good route finding is key to survival in these conditions.

Perfect weather

Hi Alan,

Just back. Beautiful day on Ben Nevis, but no one climbing except a few teams on Tower Ridge as far as we could see (which was to Skye from the plateau!). Here’s a few pics which you’re welcome to for your blog. Quite a few traditional routes possible, plus perfect mixed conditions. Lots of clear definition between scoured neve and windslab throughout the corries, so safe travel fairly obvious today. Neve is bullet! We did Green and Comb, the obvious classic choices.

Cheers, Tim

Thanks Tim. Tim is runing the British Mountain Guides winter training course from Calluna this week.