Alan

Winter Lectures

Wild weather

At present the weather is very unsettled and the low level ice of the previous weeks has disappeared or is falling down. The only consolation, is that wet sleet/snow is falling on the high tops and a series of freeze/thaw weather systems will be passing through. In the medium term this is good, as higher routes will be building and if the weather calms down, they will still be intact. A high avalanche risk persists at the moment, so stick to ridges and mixed climbs that are not threatened from above and do not require access over large bowls of snow. Avoid gullies if at all possible.  Good route finding is key to survival in these conditions.

Perfect weather

Hi Alan,

Just back. Beautiful day on Ben Nevis, but no one climbing except a few teams on Tower Ridge as far as we could see (which was to Skye from the plateau!). Here’s a few pics which you’re welcome to for your blog. Quite a few traditional routes possible, plus perfect mixed conditions. Lots of clear definition between scoured neve and windslab throughout the corries, so safe travel fairly obvious today. Neve is bullet! We did Green and Comb, the obvious classic choices.

Cheers, Tim

Thanks Tim. Tim is runing the British Mountain Guides winter training course from Calluna this week.

Beinn Udlaidh

Hey Alan,

Good ice forming, various routes in, climbed Quartzvien Scoop and a fall on lower tier, all good.  Snowy exits but OK.

Cheers, Paddy

Ramsays Round

Talk- ‘Ramsays Round, the classic 24 hour Scottish Challenge’.
To celebrate the 35th anniversary of Lochaber’s ‘Ramsay’s Round’ the originator Charlie Ramsay will
give a talk on this long distance hill running challenge which should not be missed by anyone with a
love of walking, running or the hills.
The Ramsay’s Round is a 24 hour circuit of 58 miles taking in 24 summits including Ben Nevis, with a
total climb of around 28,500 feet (nearly the height of Everest). The route was first completed by
Ramsay in 1978, with just 2 minutes to spare he had achieved his dream of circuiting all of the key
Lochaber mountains in a single day.
Charlie will discuss history and development, the physical and mental challenges, the adventure, as
well as providing inspiration for us all.
• Date: Tuesday 19th March 2013.
• The talk will start at 8pm.
• Ben Nevis Hotel and Leisure Club, North Road, Fort William, PH33 6TG.
• The room has 100 capacity, first come first served.
• £1 entrance, payable at the door.
• Organised by Lochaber Athletic Club.
• Further information- jongayarchitect@googlemail.com

Comb Gully

Thanks again to Paddy Cave for these shots taken today on Comb Gully. For myself I was attending an avalanche awareness training day run by Mark Diggins, who coordinates the Sports Scotland Avalanche Information Service We did not have to go too far from the top of the Aonach Mor gondola station before we found isolated pockets of ‘considerable’ instabilities in the snow pack.

Green Gully in good nick

Thanks to Paddy Cave for these photos taken on Green Gully today, where the conditions were very good. Approach slopes were scoured and safe at the time.

Scottish winter climbing meet in fort William

 

Check out Scottish Winter Climbing meet  This will take place in Fort William on 2nd and 3rd February.

Thanks to Dan Goodwin for the photos above, which were shot yesterday. Nothing much will have changed, except more ice forming. Steall Waterfall is starting to make up by all accounts.

Very windy and cold

Very windy over the last 24 hours. Not a lot of new snow falling and very cold. Some folk made progress on to the tops but other retreated in the teeth of the gale. Looks set to continue wintry for a week or so at least. Some ice is forming on the Curtain according to one report, but not enough to climb it.

A lot of the older gear for sale has gone. There are still some Charlet Moser clip on crampons and the new plastic Scarpa Vegas and a very nice pair (45) of Sportiva Extrems and a new pair of G10 heel clip crampons. See below

Grivel G10 mountaineering crampons. New                       £50.00
Scarpa Vega plastics NEW. Size 5/6/7/8                            £75.00
Scarpa Manta NEW. Size 37                                                  £150.00
Sportiva Nepal Extrem. Size 45                                            £150.00
Lowe Alpine bottle pockets NEW                                        £3.00
Gaiters NEW                                                                            £3 – £25
Water Bottles NEW                                                                £1 – £5
Flasks                                                                                        £3 – £5
Maps (Ben Nevis/Glencoe) 1:40000                                 £13.00
Winter gloves/mitts                                                              £17 – £23
Ben Nevis/Glencoe winter climbing guide                       £16.95
Chalk Balls                                                                              £2.00
Chalk Bags                                                                             £9.95 – £12.95

If anyone is interested and in the area, please drop by for a quick look.

Snow maker

"Snow making"

Cairngorm snow making machine. Can some one point it at the Orion Face and turn the settings to ice? Must play hell with the electricity meter! I thought these machines were for use in places where there is not a lot of snow. The far horizon suggests that Scotland is not short of snow just now!

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