Great Day all Over

The Message
Hi Alan,

The Norries were looking splendid today with all buttresses white in Lochan and Sneachda, with the turf well and truely frozen. There was snow falling for 3 or 4 hours as well. We had a very pleasent climb on the Message and there were others in the corrie on various routes.

Cheers Adam (Edinburgh)

Creag Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis was busy today with teams on Comb & Green Gully, Central Gully Right-Hand, South Gully, Wendigo and Thomson’s Chimney and Two-Step. All routes are looking reasonable if a little chopped up. Psychedelic Wall, Satanic Verses, Caledonia, Smith’s on Gardyloo Buttress, Tower Scoop, Upper Tower Cascade. Indicator Wall. Good Friday Climb, all getting ascents.

One area which looked thin but okay and empty was Upper Cascade above Raeburn’s Easy Route.

Green Gully

The snow/ice above 900 metres is truly ‘bombproof’ and a joy to climb with sharp tools.Orion Face Direct has gone and Point Five Gully looked pretty thin. All of the big easy gullies are okay, but Number Three Gully is carrying a ‘Daddy’ of a cornice.

No worries Alan,
‘gorms ARE blank, blankist I’ve seen this year. Even the couloir in Lochain has a broken section and many snow gullies are being done on turf, loose rock littered on the surface especially near red gully/goat track gully area – a lot of it is being sent down by climbers on cold days – not just when it is thawing – its just too lean to be holding much of it together. Plenty of neve and big patches for skills though, took a group up the Cas, down Domhain, under Hells Lum (has been icey but all falling down on Saturday – no routes complete) quickly to avoid odd lump of falling ice, up the left side of Feith Buidhe and down above the twin burns of Lochain. Then on saturday built belays and mountaineered our way up and down the side of the Twin Burns in Lochain.

Regards,

Al