Point Five Gully

Point Five Gully

Hello Alan,

Did point five with Duncan Paterson yesterday. We started very early(i.e. 4 am walk in) to be the first team. It was very windy and lots of spindrift was coming down on the approach so we wondered whether it was possible. Good water ice which takes screws well in the lower half. We climbed the hard bits in two pitches (first on rope stretch) and so the Rogue pitch came a bit unexpected because I thought it would be at least pitch three. However, it was good climbing and I managed to place two screws near the cave and one higher up. We were both climbing on leashless Taakoons which makes placing ice screws much easier. Big cornices on the Ben at the moment but a traverse to the right got us out of Point Five. It cleared up during the afternoon and there were still lots of climbers around. Many gully lines seem excellent at the moment, Curtain is forming well.

Thanks for all your advice and for your ‘blog’,


Cornice Capers

Quickstep Cornice

PS: These cornice pictures were taken on Quickstep a few days ago by David Talbot. Brave man! The Point Five Gully cornice could be similar. Avoid the Point Five cornice to the right and start heading in that direction well below it!

Fawlty Towers

The fourth picture today shows Fawlty Towers, which is low down on Tower Ridge, just to the right of the Douglas Gap Gully West. It is a very good area to climb on when conditions high up are either hazardous or too tiring, or you are just looking for a short day. Descent is easy by one abseil towards the easy lower slopes of Observatory Gully on the east side of Tower Ridge.

Another similar area to climb is on the First Platform of N.E. Buttress. The climbs are harder here and descent is best by two abseils, either down the route of ascent or down Slingsby’s Chimney. Alternatively try some short ‘sporty’ routes on Moonlight Gully Buttress.

Thanks to David and Henning for supporting this site with some great shots. If you want to post anything please feel free. I moderate what goes on to these pages, warts and all usually!